Young kohlrabi is a good alternative to celeriac for a summer version of this classic dish. If you like, add some bacon, cooked until crisp, then chopped and sprinkled over the top.

Serves 4 as a starter, 6 as a side dish.

• 2 tsp hot English mustard
• 2 tsp cider vinegar
• 1 scant tsp sugar
• 1 pinch salt
• 75ml olive oil
• 75ml groundnut or sunflower oil
• 2-3 kohlrabi, weighing about 750g
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2-3 tbsp finely chopped
• parsley (optional)

1. In a bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, sugar and salt.
2. Pour the oils into a jug, then very slowly trickle them into the mustard mixture, whisking all the time, until you have a creamy, emulsified dressing.
3. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary.
4. Peel the kohlrabi, cut it into matchsticks and toss into the dressing along with a few grinds of black pepper and the parsley (if using).
5. Leave for about 30 minutes to allow the flavours to blend.